A thirteen-year-old and his middle-aged father walk the ancient pilgrimage Road to Santiago de Campostela. Intentional travel? An journey into adulthood? A new beginning? A great adventure? Time will tell.
Saturday, June 16, 2012
Saint Roque as Babalú-Ayé
All along the Way to Campostela there are allusions to San Lázaro. In many towns, including Cacabelos where we are right now, there was a special hostel dedicated to San Lázaro located at the edge of town so pilgrims with the plague or leprosy would not have to mix with others. Imaged as a lame man on crutches with two dogs traveling with him, San Lázaro is a classic image of suffering, isolation,!devotion, and dynamism.
Another similar figure is San Roque. Son of French nobles, Roque became a mendicant. On pilgrimage to Rome, he came down with the plague. With open wounds he walked to Campostela, attended by a faithful dog that locked his sores clean and brought him food to eat. He is always represented as a pilgrim with sores on his legs and a dog at his side. He caught people's imagination in the Middle Ages, and there are churches for him all along the Way.
Yesterday I was already thinking a post about San Roque, who in Cuba is often linked to Babalú, the deity of infectious disease and healing. Today we walked into Cacabelos, passed the Plaza de San Lázaro, and visited the little chapel where this image of San Roque sits on the main altar.
When we went to the Plaza of San Lázaro for dinner, we saw an elderly homeless man picking through the dumpsters. As we left after dinner, he was still at it, so I offered him our leftovers--dinner for him and a small offering for us to show our gratitude for our well-being.
Friday, June 15, 2012
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Cool Things
Today we went from Astorga to Rabanal del Camino (~20 kilometers). Our feet became tired, but we saw many cool things. Since we started, farms and irrigation pipes such as these have followed us every step of the way, but we will soon leave them behind as we cross the mountains.
Thursday, June 14, 2012
El Ganso
Seven years ago on cold, wet October day, I walk though the village of El Ganso with my wife Daria. We noticed the many rose bushes as they were all pregnant with rose hip. But we wondered what color the roses were.
Today Nico and I returned to El Ganso to find the roses in full bloom. As we walked through the village, We saw white roses. We saw pink roses. We saw red roses. As we came to the Romanesque church...
We saw that the whole exterior wall of the apse was covered by a huge rose bush sporting pink and yellow roses similar to the ones Daria and I had at our wedding.
When we called Daria later in the day and told her that we had passed through El Ganso, her immediate response was, "What color were the roses?"
Rammed. Earth.Building. Paradise.
Yesterday afternoon in Villadongas del Páramo we saw close a hundred rammed-earth buildings with different facades, roofs, and layouts. The older folks I talked to said no one who knows the technique is still alive there and that nowadays people don't want this kind of house.
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